It is a neighbourhood full of contrasts, both ancient and modern, right in the historic centre. It is centred around the Plaza de la Virgen and Valencia Cathedral, with its medieval-style streets that ooze Mediterranean soul. Sunny squares and terraces, museums, monuments, craft and design shops, authentic markets, restaurants and bars to enjoy Valencian gastronomy. When you visit the Ciutat Vella district you are immersed in a journey through Arab, Christian and medieval culture. There, history merges with the ever-changing present, with spaces brimming with the avant-garde, authenticity and a great atmosphere.
From the Quart Towers to the Serrano Towers. From the Plaza del Tossal to the Plaza del Árbol. From the Central Market to the Mossén Sorell Market, in every street of Ciutat Vella you will find charming buildings and corners. So that you can discover it in depth, here are some suggestions that will help you make the most of your visit to the most historic district of Valencia.
Breakfast at Central Bar in Central Market
You can start your tour at a must-see: the Central Market, an icon of Valencian modernism. With its tiled roof, stained glass windows and iron columns, the building's structure is sure to make an impression, as will its colourful interior. It is a feast for the senses.
Take the opportunity to have breakfast or lunch (the market is open from 7:30 am to 3 pm) at Central Bar by Ricard Camarena. The Valencian chef, who has been awarded two Michelin stars and a green star, practises his gastronomic philosophy based on the concept of ‘zero food miles’, with a tasty menu of sandwiches, tapas and desserts made with fresh produce, much of it acquired daily from the market itself. You don't need to make a reservation to enjoy a typical Valencian esmorzaret with seasonal products in the incredible setting of the Central Market.
A good dose of art
Contemporary art, avant-garde, classical culture? Whatever your preferences you will find great options in the Barrio del Carmen.
The Centre del Carme Cultura Contemporánea, in the old Monastery of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, was also home to the School of Fine Arts and Crafts. The building alone, with its Gothic and Renaissance cloisters, is worth a visit. You will also be surprised by their current exhibition proposals: visual arts, performing arts, performance or music. Exhibitions that combine a wide range of artistic languages and change frequently, so that new things are always being discovered at the CCCC.
Another must on the tour is the Instituto Valenciano de Arte Moderno- IVAM, a reference point for the historical avant-garde of the 20th century. Its permanent collection includes works by national and international artists in painting, sculpture, drawing, photography, video and installation. Names such as Julio González, Ignacio Pinazo, James Rosenquist, Carmen Calvo, Rodchenko, Cindy Sherman and Alexander Calder make up this collection. There are also temporary exhibitions, installations and performances.
If you are interested in history and crafts, don't miss the Silk Museum. It is housed in a 15th century building that blends Gothic and Baroque styles, where you will discover the importance that this fabric came to have and the legacy that it left in the city. Valencia became the epicentre of a powerful textile industry that exported to the rest of the world for centuries. Visitors to the museum can see old looms in operation, how silkworms were bred, costumes and historical documents that explain the entire history of silk in the city.
Also not to be missed is the Hortensia Herrero Art Centre, housed in a 17th century palace that is an impressive container for the private collection of the person after whom the museum is named. More than 100 works by artists such as Anselm Kiefer, Anish Kapoor, George Baselitz, Mat Collishaw, Tony Cragg or Andreas Gursky.
Where to eat in Ciutat Vella
In the Barrio del Carmen you have a wide variety of options to eat very, very well and at reasonable prices. If you have visited the Silk Museum, you can take advantage of the fact that the Espai Seda restaurant is located right there. Its terrace is charming in all seasons and offers a menu based on Mediterranean cuisine.
If you fancy a taste of the most Valencian flavours, try eating at Vaqueta Gastromercat, a designer establishment with the best of the terreta.
And for tapas, go to Colmado de la Lola. This is a cult place where you can taste the freshest products, such as oysters or sea urchins and salted fish, smoked meats, homemade croquettes or scrambled truffled eggs.
On the world map of urban art
If in the morning you have visited a traditional museum, in the afternoon we recommend art in the open air. The aim is to discover the best murals and graffiti in Ciutat Vella, which has become one of the areas with the greatest proliferation of façades and walls turned into canvases, with works by Escif, Julieta, David de Limón, Deih, La Nena Wapa Wapa and Barbi. The Calle de los Colores stands out, with photos of Alfonso Calza turned into murals by artists such as Luis Lonjedo.
Valencian-style snack
After the walk, the body will need a snack and in Valencia the best option is a good horchata with fartons. We recommend Horchatería Daniel. Although they are originally from the town of Alboraya, they have a very charming place in Calle del Mar, 4 (next to Plaza de la Reina), where you can taste not only horchata made with tigernut milk with designation of origin, but also homemade cakes and ice creams.
Buy local handicrafts
Ciutat Vella is the perfect place to find original gifts and crafts. At Abanicos Vibenca you can buy hand-painted, hand-crafted fans, authentic works of art. Their creations are the result of a tradition in the trade that dates back to 1910. Since then, three generations of a Valencian family have dedicated themselves to the craft of hand-painting fans. At 5, Plaza Lope de Vega. And very close by you have the Abanicos Burriel shop, in the Plaza Redonda, run by the third generation dedicated to the manufacture of precious palm hearts.
Let's face it: on our travels we want to buy souvenirs, but we don't always find something surprising. The solution can be found in Calle Caballeros, in Atypical Valencia, a shop that specialises in products inspired by Valencian heritage. The original touch is that postcards, tote bags, magnets, T-shirts and puzzles are printed by real artists.
You will also enjoy yourself if you go to La Postalera. You will find charming objects to enhance your experience in Valencia. La Postalera is ideal for buying all kinds of original gifts and souvenirs, created by Valencian and Spanish artists. The shop currently has three locations: Danzas 3, Correjería 4 and Concordia 4.
Lose yourself in the streets of the historic centre
The streets of Ciutat Vella hide authentic treasures, such as the Portal de la Valldigna, the old entrance to the València Moorish quarter, the elegant palaces of Calle Caballeros or the charming modernist buildings of Calle de la Paz. Wander around and witness the authentic Mediterranean lifestyle on the terraces of the Plaza de Sant Jaume, the Plaza del Negrito, the Miracle del Mocadoret, the Plaza del Carmen or the Plaza de los Fueros, just behind the Serranos Towers. Stop by the Mossen Sorell Market or the Tapinería Market for an aperitif and enjoy the best view of the Miguelete from Corretgeria Street.
Choose the one that appeals to you and enjoy the last experience of the day. Oh, don't forget to try the city's most representative cocktail: the Agua de València at the Café de las Horas (Conde de Almodóvar, 1). You'll love it!
